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Trau Cau (The Betal and Areca Tree)

Trau Cau, or The Betal and the Areca Tree, is one of the most famous Vietnamese legends. This version is from the book Vietnamese Legends and Folk Tales from The Gioi Publishers.

During the reign of the Fourth (some say the third) Hung King, there lived a mandarin whose family-name was Cao. He had two sons, Tan and Lang, Although not twins, they resembled each other like two drops of water, mother could not tell them apart. They had the same lofty brows, the same straight noses, and the same intelligent, sparking eyes. They were both handsome, they loved each other tenderly, and one was never seen without the other. The two brothers were still young when a fire burned down their home, causing the death of their parents and the loss of all their possessions. The two young men were left in want, and to avoid charity, went out into the life in search of work.

By chance they knocked at the door of Mandarin Luu, a very pious man, who had been an intimate friend of their parents. He received them into his stately mansion with the most cordial welcome. He had no sons of his own; but had a daughter, as fair as a white lotus, and as fresh as a spring rose.

Wishing to tighten their bonds of friendship and affection, Mandarin Luu offered to give his daughter in marriage to one of the young men. They were both attracted by the good looks and graceful manners of the pretty maiden; and each secretly loved her.

Their hearts were equally generous, however, each insisted that the other should marry the girl. For her part, the maiden was unable to choose between the two young men, they were so alike.

Tan and Lan would never have come to an agreement had the mandarin not use a clever little trick to find out which was the elder. He ordered a special meal prepared for his daughter and the two brothers. Two bowls were brought to the table, but only one pair of chop-sticks. Without hesitation, Lang picked up the chopsticks and in a very respectful manner handed them to Tan. Tan accepted them naturally, and Mandarin Luu immediately chose the elder brother to be the husband of his daughter.

Tan was not the happiest man on earth. He loved his bride passionately, and they pledged eternal love for each other. He had never known such happiness and spent his time composing love poems to describe his bliss and to show his deep affection.

He completely neglected his brother, and seemed to have never thought of him.

After his brother’s wedding, Lang triumphed easily over his secret love for the young woman. He gladly accepted his lot, for he wanted only the happiness of his beloved elder brother. But gradually he realized that Tan had become indifferent and cold towards him.

Lang waited for a long time in silence for a sign of friendship and love, but it did not come. Poor Lang!

One morning he said to himself:

“Alas! My elder brother no longer loves me. Why should I stay here at all, unloved and unwanted? The sooner I leave this place the better.”

He sprang to his feet and left the house, for he could no longer bear his grief. For a long time he walked, insensible to fatigue, until he reached the dark, blue sea. A cold wind was blowing, the sun had sunk below the horizon, and the last gleams of the sunset were swallowed up by the immense body of water.

Completely exhausted, hungry and thirsty, Lang sat down on the grass by the edge of the sea and wept until he died of grief, and was changed into a white, chalky rock.

When Tan learned that Lang had stolen away from the house, he was extremely sorry and ashamed of his selfishness. Full of regret and troubled by his conscience, he set out to look for his young brother.

He traversed the same route, crossed the same hills and passed through the same forests, until he died, changing into a tree with a straight trunk and green palm leaves. Tan had become the areca tree.

When the young bride found that her husband had left their home, she missed him so much that she set off in search. She traversed in the very same route, and arrived that the site of the white chalky rock and the areca tree. Entirely worn out, she lay down to rest at the foot of the tree. Tears of despair rolled down her cheeks, and she kept on crying sorrowful and thinking of her husband until she died. She was turned into the creeping betal plant, which twined itself around the stately trunk of the areca tree.

Enlightened by a dream, the peasants of the vicinity built a temple, in commemoration of the fraternal and conjugal love of the unfortunate brothers and the maiden. On the faced of the temple they inscribed the following motto: “Brothers united, spouses faithful.”

Years later, during a period of exceptional drought which marked the end of the reign of the fourth Hung king, the areca tree and the creeping betal plant were ht eonly green things remaining amidst the desolation. At the news of this miracle, pilgrims from all parts of the kingdom journeyed to the temple.

Hung king himself went there, and learned the story from the village notables. He was impressed by the tale and attempted to learn the divine intentions by asking his counselors the meaning of it all, but no one knew the answer.

Finally, the minister of justice, a great and wise old man, said to the king:

“Sire, when one wishes to assure himself of the consanguinity of brothers and sisters, or when one wishes to know the paternity of a child, the persons concerned are blood, and their blood is collected in the same bowl. If the blood coagulates the response is positive. We could crush together some leaves of the betal plant, with the fruit of the tree, and a fragment of rock.”

This advice was followed. The rock was heated and reduced to powder and the mixture took on a beautiful red color; the proof was clear.

The king meditated and said: “This is the true symbol of fraternal and conjugal love. Let the tree and the plant be grown everywhere in commemoration of this beautiful story.”

Brothers and sisters began to chew the quid of the betal to demonstrate fraternal love, and newly wedded couples chew it to demonstrate conjugal love. The habit spread very quickly, until the end of it became the custom to offer the quid of betal at all social meetings.

 

me chewing cau

[”The Betal and Areca Tree”. Vietnamese Legends & Folk Tales. The Gioi Publishers. Vietnam, 2007. pgs. 109, 111, 113, 115, 117.]

The Vietnamese Wedding

It was wedding season.  In a traditional Vietnamese wedding the groom, with his family and friends, go over the bride’s home and askes her parents for her hand in marriage.  More often than not, the parents agree.  Then, the bride and groom pray to the ancestors of the bride.  The bride’s parents express their happiness and the mother gives her daughter jewelry and a straw hat, which will protect from the sun and rain on the way to her new husband’s home.

After some congratulations, the groom takes his bride (along with some of her family and friends) to his home where the rest of his family is waiting.  The couple prays to the groom’s ancestors. Then listen to some happy remarks from his parents. An M.C. announces the happy couple and everyone goes crazy.  The groom’s parents adorn the bride with more jewelry.  The couple walks around the offer the guests some treats.

In the first wedding that we went to, we were friends of the groom.  The wedding started at 11 am.  We arrived at the groom’s house and everyone was getting ready on their scooters to accompany the groom’s limo to the brides home, which was about 5 minutes away.

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We paraded to her house where there were many people waiting. She was still getting ready up stairs, but he went up anyways.  From the moment they saw each other they were rushed to the altar room, prayed, then rushed down to meet the guests.  The bride’s parents said that they were thrilled about this marriage.  Then, the mother gave her daughter earrings, a necklace, and a straw hat.  They marched out of the house and got into the limo.  We got back on our scooters and followed them back to the groom’s house.

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 The couple was welcomed with confetti, whistles, and horns.  They rushed to the altar room, prayed to the groom’s ancestors, and took a look at their new bedroom.  Then listened to praise remarks from his parents. The bride got a pair of golden earrings from the groom’s mother.  Then, the couple exchanged wedding rings. The M.C. has his mic in hand and announces the happy couple.  They walk around offering cigarettes and green tea to their guests.

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In the second wedding that we went to, we were friends of the bride.  The wedding started the night before the wedding, when we gathered at the bride’s home for karaoke and other entertainment.  This night was to celebrate her last night in her home that she grew up in.

wedding 2-1

 wedding 2-2

The next morning, we gathered at her house at 6 am.  There was an abundance of food.  We ate and drank and waited for her groom to come.  At around 8 am, he came with his entourage.  He went to her room, where she was still getting ready.  He waited until she was done, then they went and prayed to her ancestors.  Her parents gave some words of approval.  They offered candy and betal and areca to their guests.

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The bride’s sister was crying and wouldn’t let her go.  Her mother gave her an embroidered straw hat and some jewelry.  The M.C. exclaimed at how perfect the couple was.  Then, the groom escorted his bride out of the house.  He lived in Hoa Binh which is an hour away from Ha Nam.  So, only some of the family and friends got on a bus that followed the wedding car to the couple’s new home.  It was 9 am and we decided to go back to sleep.

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Mountain Kings

In the mountains that border Ha Nam (which are actually in Ninh Binh, a larger bordering town) are the temples devoted to King Dinh and King Le from feudal Vietnam.

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Dinh Bo Linh was a distinguished officer at the end of the Ngo Dynasty. In 968, he became emperor and took the name of King Dinh Tien Hoang. He was responsible for unifying the country, he even renamed it Dai Co Viet, which means Great Vietnam. He had many palaces, which he assigned to his son King Nam Viet Vuong (Dinh Lieu).

At the end of his throne to his youngest son, Hang Lang, to be emperor. Enraged, King Nam Viet Vuong, the oldest son, and also an important figure in his father’s reign, killed Hang Lang. This however, didn’t make up king, because one night, some crazy minor palace officer named Do Thich had a dream, then woke up, and killed King Dinh Tien Hoang and King Nam Viet Vuong. This left one of the other young sons, Dinh Ve Vuong to be emperor. However, he was only 6 years old.

The queen, Duong Van Nga, made the courageous decision to marry Le Hoan, an important Vietnamese general. He became emperor Le Dai Hanh and thus started the Le Dynasty. King Le was a good ruler, he kept Vietnam safe, improved the roads, and replaced Chinese currency with Vietnamese currency.

In these mountains, there were two temples, one to King Dinh and the other to King Le. There is also a special statue and altar place devoted to Queen Duong Van Nga in King Dinh’s temple. Visitors come to pray to these kings and the queen for health and longevity.

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We climbed up the mountain to visit the grave of King Le. Half way up, an old woman sold us overpriced soy milk and told us the story of these kings. She told us to be patient, breathe, and keep going up the mountain.

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At the top of the mountain we encountered another old lady, who recited a poem about the kings and told us to pay our homage. We each put down 10 VND (60 cents) and prayed for some more health and longevity.

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Xoi Gac (Momordica Sweet Rice)

To make xoi gac (momordica sweet rice) you take gao nep, which is a sweet and sticky rice, and mix it with gac fruit, which is momordica fruit.  Then, cook the rice and fruit for about an hour.  Meanwhile, cook up some dau xanh, which is mung bean.  When the dau xanh is ready, smush it until it turns into a paste.  After an hour, the rice will be ready, and it will be flavored and dyed by the fruit.  Flavor it some more with sugar.  Then, find a mold, oil it up, and compress about 1/3 of the rice into it.  After, compress another 1/3 with mung bean, and then the final 1/3 with rice.  Take your rice cake out of the mold.  Sprinkle sesame seeds on top.  Done.

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Fishing

Tuat knew of a place to catch really big fish.  So, we drove for about 40 minutes to a small house.  In the back of the house was a small mossy-swampy pool.  We dunked out fishing pole into the water and waited for 20 minutes.  Then, we caught a very big fish.  We were very happy.  We paid the owners of the house/fishing pool and left.

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Team Hai Lun v.s. Homecoming Boys

Some of the town boys came home from their months of service to the Vietnamese Army. As a welcome back, the Hai Lun Restaurant soccer team challenged the homecomers to a soccer match. The Hai Lun boys gave the homecomers a 10 point advance. The winning team would take the other team out for dinner worth 1 million VND (about $60) at Thien Ha Restaurant, which is Tuat’s sister’s restaurant. One hour before the game one of the Hai Lun boys scootered around the village with a megaphone and announced the challenge, time and place of the match. Many of the townspeople came. Hai Lun boys were blue, homecomers were anything. The Hai Lun boys lost 10 to 11.

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Tiet Canh De (Deer’s Blood)

At Hai Lun Restaurant, and at many other places, Tiet Canh De (Deer’s Blood) is a V.I.P dish. A deer, which has been properly fed and nurtured, is butchered in the morning so that this dish can be served for dinner. The blood of the deer is saved and refrigerated. In the evening, the deer meat is cook and chopped into fine pieces. Then, the meat is scattered onto a platter and is seasoned with MSG, lemongrass, and salt and pepper. The blood is poured on and in about 20 minutes the dish hardens into a gelatin-like consistency.

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Cats

We went down the road from Hai Lun Restaurant and ate cats. They were served in pennywort and coconut soup, in porridge, sautéed in sesame, and steamed with chili, salt, and pepper.

woman making pennywort juice

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Ha Nam and Hai Lun Restaurant

The final destination of our travels in Northern Vietnam was Ha Nam. This town is the invisible place that we think of when we read folk tales. Grey mountains border this town. Boulders, rocks, stones, and pebbles stumble down from these mountains and the people build their houses and markets out of them.

Ha Nam

Watch:

 Hat Voi Ha Nam (Sing Along with Ha Nam)

 

We stayed at my friend Tuat’s house, which also has a restaurant called Hai Lun. This restaurant is the most successful business in this area. Tuat’s father used to serve for the Vietnamese army, then after the war, he started a family restaurant—since he had a knack for cooking anyways. He passed away five years ago, but he had taught all of his children how to cook. Now, Tuat’s mother manages the restaurant, one of his sisters is the head of the kitchen, his brother does the money stuff, his other sister opened a twin restaurant across the street, and approximately 20 employees live and work on the property keeping the place alive. Because of its solo location on the main highway, this restaurant attracts almost all of the hungry travelers passing by.

The mayor eats at the restaurant daily. All of the boys in the house have formed their own soccer team and they often practice after the restaurant closes. Most of the vegetables grow in the garden and many of the animals used for cooking are raised on the property as well. Sometimes, the boys go out hunting or fishing and everyone prepares the food together when the return. When they are not singing through the night, Tuat’s brother Long reads action stories until he goes to sleep, and the young girl Uyen wanders around the restaurant chewing on sugar cane.

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Hanoi Oi!

On a Friday night, some of my friends and I took the soft-seater 29 train ride from Saigon to Hanoi. On the train, we talked about things over bags of beef jerky and cuddle fish, kilos of grapefruit, cans of pasticcios, jars of pate, and dozens of boiled eggs. Vietnam is a beautiful country. It has bodies of water, valleys, and mountains all elegantly spread over a thin S-shaped piece of land. Rain or shine, everything looks like it’s just lingering—moving back and forth in humidity. We arrived in Hanoi at 4 am on Sunday morning, tired, smelly, motion-sick, and stomach-sick. We caught a taxi and told the driver to take us to some place central.

soft seater train

We sat by Ho Tay (The West Lake) and watched people wake up, eat, and exercise. Soon, we figured out a place to shower, people to meet, and places to see.

Ho Tay

Hanoi prides itself in Vietnamese sophistication. It is scattered with lakes and each lake is surrounded by very large and old trees. In the fall and winter, Hanoi is wet, cold, and gorgeous. In the spring and summer, Hanoi is wet, hot, and (rumor has it) not as gorgeous. In its elegance, people drink their coffee black and hot. Grey and brown coats with pointy black shoes is a popular dress code among men. Dark colors adorned in rhinestones and spiked heel boots is a popular dress code among women.

 

 

Hanoi People Reading

Hanoi People

We wandered to the zoo where many parents were taking pictures of their children with Nikon and Canon digital SLRS. Old people sat on benches reading the newspaper. A popular hangout for teens was a roller-skating rink. We sat down at a sugar cane juice stand. The woman smiled and made us four fresh glasses. She talked about how the beautiful the zoo was on Sunday mornings. Then, she took a sugar cane stick out of her bucket, ran 10 meters, and started fighting with a rival juice-lady. Supposedly the fight was over money.

 

 

Kids in Bubble 1

Hanoi Park

Hanoi Roller Rink

Fight

 

 

We met up with a friend of a friend who is a graduate of the Hanoi Fine Arts University and is now a working painter. He sports a black Vespa and earns $20,000 a month making impasto paintings of Hanoi’s charming streets. His house was full of these paintings; he had them all displayed because his gallerist was going to come to pick them up in a day or two. He shook his head at them and said, “These paintings took a lot of energy out of me, you wake up and you just paint and paint. None of them took me more than an hour. But, these are commercial paintings, not my real creations, I can’t make real paintings yet. You need money to make real paintings.” In Vietnamese, the creation of commercial paintings is ‘sang tac hang’ which literally translates to ‘create goods’; the creation of personal paintings is ‘sang tac choi’ which literally translates to ‘create play’.

Our Painter Friend

Our painter friend took us around Hanoi. He said, “Give me any other city to live in, and I would never live in it. I love Hanoi. Don’t get me wrong, other cities are nice too, interesting and exciting at first, but there is nothing like Hanoi.”

Charming Street

Hanoi Night 1

He had to pick up some checks from his gallerist, so we stopped by Dragon Gallery. The gallery was crowded with paintings, they were all hung salon style. The gallerist was a very nice lady. She told our friend to keep painting and that many people were responding to the paintings. However, he should think about using more yellow.

After the visit to the gallery we went to a lacquer painting studio of our painter’s friend friend. You couldn’t miss the studio; there was a large sign outside it that said, “Lacquer Studio.” The lacquer painter’s work does not sell as well as our painter friend, mainly because he sells out of his studio and isn’t associated with a gallery. When we walked in, the lacquer painter offered us chrysanthemum wine and showed us around his studio. His subject matter is the minority women who live in the high mountains in Vietnam. He had an assistant who was polishing some of his works. We sat, looked at his paintings, sipping on chrysanthemum wine.

Lacquer Painter

Lacquer Painter’s Assistant

Later, we went to another painter’s studio, another friend of our painter friend. His paintings also don’t sell as well as our painter friend but mainly because they are pastel colored paintings of ordinary landscapes. We didn’t stay there for long because we followed this new painter friend to a hidden coffee shop on top of a clothing store. There, he took a guitar and sung songs about Hanoi. This was the Hanoi that I heard about in Saigon.

Listen:

Chieu Mua Hanoi (Afternoon Rain in Hanoi)

Huong Ve Hanoi (Turn Back to Hanoi)

Em Oi Hanoi Pho (Baby, the Streets of Hanoi)

Co Phai Em Mua Thu Hanoi? (Are you the Autumn of Hanoi?)