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Cam On Minh Da Yeu Em (Thank You for Letting Me Love You)

My aunt Co Nhung took me to see a Vietnamese contemporary play at Idecafe, a French cultural center in Saigon. The play was called Cam On Minh Da Yeu Em.

The story opens with a couple of grandparents and a young couple. The grandparents appear happy in their old age, and the young couple is happy in love. The grandmother and looks at the audience and says, “Don’t mind this happy couple [points at the young couple], just leave them alone. You know we weren’t always this happy.”

The curtains open to a scene of a living room. The husband/father is a successful C.E.O of a company. The wife/mother is a housewife, and pregnant. The husband’s son from a previous marriage lives in the house. The wife’s daughter, also from a pervious marriage lives there as well. So do the two grandparents met earlier. The house is happy and excited for the new baby.

Then one day, someone in the husbands company leaves a cigarette burning and the whole building burns down. That same day, the wife goes to the doctor for her routine pregnancy check-up and finds that she has breast cancer. Either she dies for the baby, or the baby dies for her.

The husband doesn’t want to tell the wife about the company because he’s afraid the news will put stressed on the pregnancy. The wife doesn’t want to tell the husband about her tumor because she’s afraid the news will put stress on the company. However, she is emotionally distressed and this causes the couple to continually fight, and this caused stress on the family. The wife decides she wants a divorce.

One day the wife goes out and the rest of the family looks through her bag. They find medical results and x-rays of her breasts. The husband rushes to the doctor’s house to demand an explanation. The doctor is a weirdo, she lives alone with giant doll children and puppets. She tells the husband, “So, what do you want me to tell you? That everything’s going to be okay? Either your kid will die, or your wife. The decision is up to your wife, that’s all I have to tell you.” The husband replies, “How can you be so evil?” Doc replies, “When I was pregnant, I chose to loose the baby, look at me now.” Then she laughs.

The wife walks in to see the doctor. The husband looks at his wife and says, “Why didn’t you tell me?” The wife replies, “I just didn’t know what to say. I knew it would hurt you.” The husband says, “Maybe you should loose the baby, it doesn’t know anything, then we can be happy again.” The wife shrieks, “No! Don’t ask me to loose my baby!”

Intermission.

When the curtains open again, the wife has given birth to the baby and lays dying in the hospital. She makes recordings for the baby to hear about lessons in life, being a woman, and how much she wishes she could be there to raise her. The hospital custodian comes in and he complains about his wife and him don’t have enough money to raise his children and pets. The wife in bed askes him what his wife does. He tells her his wife sells sticky rice. She tells him that she will buy enough sticky rice for all of the sick people in the hospital. The custodian is thrilled. Then, she says, “Because I wish I could stay alive and have no money, but be with my husband and children.”

The custodian leaves and the husband comes in. The husband tells his wife that she is going to be okay because they are going to Singapore for surgery. She tells him, “Please, don’t say things like that. You know, I’m tried of calling each other ‘Anh’ and ‘Em’.” The husband askes, “What are you saying?” She says, “I want us to call each other ‘Minh’. It just sounds so soft, tender, and closer.” [In Vietnamese, the common way for couples to address each other is calling the male ‘Anh’ and the female ‘Em’. ‘Minh’ is another way to address yourself, but it also means body.]

In the next scene, the wife has died, and the family is seen in the living room playing with the new baby, now a toddler. The young couple that we met at the beginning of the play turns out to be the husband’s son and the wife’s daughter. They run around the house and flirt with each other.

The grandfather is going through old things and finds mysterious tapes. He plays them and the family finds out that theses are the tapes the wife had made for her baby before she passed. On one of the recordings the wife says, “Oh child, when you turn 13 you will come to point in your life when you suddenly bleed. Don’t be a afraid this is a natural step to becoming a woman. Please ask your sister for guidance…” The recording goes on and the father picks up the tape player and cries, “Minh Oi!” (“Oh, Minh!”)

Curtain closes.

Enrichment in Can Tho

I went to Can Tho to attend the Fulbright Enrichment Seminar. It was a gathering of all seven of the Fulbrighters in Vietnam. We met at Can Tho University, a very large university in Vietnam that is famous for its agriculture department. In a conference room, we shared the progress of our different projects. The topics of research included, curriculum development in agricultural studies, family health care, microcredit economics, photography, curriculum development in media studies, creating a screenplay, and painting.

Fulbrighters

Can Tho University Soccer Field

 

We got a tour of the school, some of us participated in a curriculum development seminar with faculty, and some of us went to a seminar on life in America with students. Later, the group of us that talked with the students became judges in an English-speaking contest where the winner won a full-tuition scholarship (price value is about $100). Each student had to answer 2 questions that they prepared for and 1 unprepared follow-up question based on the prepared answer. The school originally wanted us to determine the winner based on a point system. But, as it turned out, some of the high scoring students did not seem worthy of the full-tuition scholarship. So, we, the judges, quarreled about what made a good English speaker until the winner was chosen almost unanimously.

Can Tho Students

Can Tho is in the Mekong Delta. It is a city that thrives on the produce. One night, after going out for Ban Xeo (Vietnamese savory crepes) with some local friends, they asked us if we wanted to go out for fruit. Over some fruit, we decided to wake up or stay up until 3:30 am to take a boat out to the Floating Market.

At 3:30 am, everything was still dark. There were many boats sitting (or waiting) on the water. Then as we rowed out into the Mekong, we started to see people make their coffee and brush their teeth from inside of the boats. Many of the market people live on the boats their entire lives. They wave the produce that they specialize in selling on a stick in the front of their boat. By 4:30 am, the sleeping boats become a floating city.

Floating Market 1

Floating Market 2

Floating Market 3

Floating Market 4

Floating Market 5

Floating Market 6

Floating Market 7

Floating Market 7

Floating Market 8

Floating Market 9

Floating Market 10

 

 

Mr. Miyagi and Bui Xuan Phai

I went over to Bac Liem’s and received my first lesson. I arrived returning a book about some Vietnamese artists who were big time in the making of Vietnamese art history, Nguyen Gia Tri, Nguyen Sang, To Ngoc Van and Bui Xuan Phai.

I sat down and shared a cup of green tea with Bac Liem, and he asked me, “Thay hay la To?” (Teacher or Craftsperson?)

I replied, “Artist?”

He asked me again, “Thay hay la To?”

I replied, “What are you asking me? I’m not an artisian.”

Bac Liem smiled. “Do you want to go see a painting?”

I said sure.

So we went, along with my uncle Chu Hung.

We traveled a bit, out to Tan Binh district, which is right by the airport. We arrived at an enormous house where there was a kung-fu class going on as soon as you walked in.

To the teacher, Bac Liem points upstairs and says, “Paintings.”

The teacher replied, “Please, go on ahead!”

Upstairs was a breathtaking collection of Vietnamese art. Many of the paintings were made by the four artists mentioned earlier. Some of the paintings were the kinds that you see in art history books. One of the paintings was Bac Liem’s. It was a tediously made image of women in something that looked like a landscape in the spring.

We wandered through the collection.

The Mr. Miyagi character who owns this collection is named Tran Hau Tuan. He has been an art collector and kung-fu master for years. He teaches kung-fu in his living room to mainly foreign visitors. He also translates many Vietnamese texts into English. Before we left he gave me a book.

I said to him, “Thank you, your collection is amazing.”

He said, “Thank you, only people from Hanoi can do something like this. I keep this collection here so that foreigners won’t look down on Vietnam so much. Please come back and read anytime you want.”

We thanked him again and left.

The book he gave me is called “Reflections on Arts.” It is a collection of quotes from Bui Xuan Phai. A graduate of the Ecoles Des Beaux Arts de Indochine, Bui Xuan Phai is one of the most well known painters in Vietnamese art history. He was born in 1920 and died in 1988. He worked small and intimate and mostly painted scenes from the Hanoi streets and themes from Cheo (a kind of Vietnamese traditional opera). Here are some things that he said:

“Knowing how someone appraises or comprehends a painting will enable us to learn how they paint. How can one paint a beautiful work without being able to see Beauty?

A new kind of Beauty does not come with familiarity, it brings with it a certain sense of the unexpected, the unknown. First one finds it strange, gradually one gets used to it and start to discover its appeal. Beauty goes on existing, probably because it is always new.” (21)

“The essence of modernism is youth. The further Art progresses, the younger it gets, Art would be so withered, so old if its people wanted to regress (i.e. conservative)!” (31)

“Of course those with the so-called “unseeing eyes” will not be able to understand Beauty. How sad it would be for a great beauty to come across a myopic man without his glasses. A sharp eye for Art is quite a different from a sharp eye for… hygiene standards for example. Some people are illiterate despite their perfect eyesight. A person who is ‘blind’ to Art will not be able to bear a painting that’s difficult to understand.” (49)

“Sometimes the value of a beautiful painting is enhanced by a signature. Not because it’s a beautiful signature, but because of the name, of the person who painted it.” (71)

“Fine, carry on working, paintings, researching… eventually you come to produce something new, eventually you will come to understand others, to understand yourself. Without understanding yourself, it is easy to confuse between Beauty and Ugliness.” (73)

“Style is a form of sincerity. Your style is what you are. Hence it is such a bad thing to imitate any style. Your vision (like a pair of glasses) must be your own rather borrowed!” (101)

“Vietnamese vocabulary does not contain many words to clearly distinguish between the followers of the many disciples that exist in pictorial Art. Often they are all just called Painter for the sake of convenience. As long as you paint, you will be known as a painter, regardless of what you paint with or what you paint. And once you are called a “painter”, it seems that you are capable of doing anything at all.

Well, if you can paint anything at all then it would be difficult to paint certain something really well.

Is it possible that painting as a profession is not a highly regarded in our country as it is else where?

In other countries, the public tends to pay much attention to unique original talent. Because there is such profusion of ordinary talent that it is not possible… to take not of them all! For that reason, we should not be surprised when certain talents are frequently mentioned in the press. But don’t forget that there are extremely original talents that have yet to receive any praise. Maybe time is needed to see if a talent will grow greater or become smaller!” (123)

[Phai, Bui Xuan. Reflections on Art. Ed. Bui Thanh Phuong and Tran Hau Tuan. Trans. Thuy Anh and Stephen Gaksill. Truong Hang Giam doc NXB My thuat. HCMC, Vietnam, 2003.]

The Apprentice

“So, what do you want to know?” Bac Liem asked me.

“I want to know the root of it all,” I replied.

“All foreigners want to know that, but not even Vietnamese people know the answer to that. You need to go to Hanoi. Ho Chi Minh City doesn’t have any technique. The people in Hanoi know what they’re doing. I used to hate Hanoi, and then I went to Hanoi, and now I’m scared of Hanoi. When someone askes you what you are here, and you say, ‘I’m an artist,’ they think you’re crazy. When you’re in Hanoi and you say you’re an artist, they are afraid of you. That is Hanoi. There is something in their blood; that is why they won against the Americans. Tradition never dies up there.”

I nodded.

He continued, “Lacquer painting originates from ancient Vietnamese art. At first it was used to make decorative paintings for the altar. Then, Nguyen Sang and Nguyen Gia Tri incorporated this medium into four dimensions. Do you know who they are?”

I shook my head no.

“They are two of the fathers of Vietnamese modern art. Four dimensions, like music. You can feel it all around you. Before them, everything was flat. Then they put space into Vietnamese art.”

Bac Liem slowly rubbed his hand around his whole face.

“They did this at the Ecole des Beaux-Art in Hanoi. I was one of their close friends. Nguyen Sang is better than Nguyen Gia Tri. Nguyen Gia Tri is a good craftsman. Would you like to see a painting by Nguyen Sang?”

My eyes lit up, and I nodded my head yes.

“Look on that wall, that is a painting by Nguyen Sang, oil on canvas. It is a painting of my wife who you met outside. The one over there is a painting on silk.”

I looked at the two paintings.

bac liem’s wife

“Would you like to see a lacquer painting by Nguyen Sang?”

I shook my head yes.

Bac Liem turned a panel around. There, was one of the most famous images in Vietnamese paintings, two sumo wrestlers. I touched the painting and marveled at the black contour. “This is an amazing black line, how did he get it that soft and dark at the same time?”

Bac Liem replied, “That is Nguyen Sang. Do not always use lacquer to paint. Sometimes, use the wood. Use gum arabic to block off some of the areas and then wash it off later. Then, you will after a deep black such as that, because it is the black of the wood.”

nguyen sang lacquer

bac liem

“Would you like to see more paintings?” he asked.

“Of course.”

He pulled out another silk painting and an oil painting version of the sumo wrestlers. “What kind of feelings do get from the paintings?” he asked me.

nguyen sang

“I don’t get any feeling from just looking at one,” I replied, “but I think that there is something going on with his grey. Actually, I think that Nguyen Sang is saying something with his greys, more so than he is saying something with his subject matter. The subject matters: your wife, women, and sumo wrestlers are important, but not as important as the grey. When you look outside, the weather in Vietnam makes everything grey. It’s so humid. I really think that there is something lingering in the grey.”

Bac Liem nodded with approval of my answer. “Nguyen Sang painted contour,” he said.

I responded, “I think he’s tricking you. He’s a lot like Matisse. He uses these colors to trick you into thinking that there is space. Really, he takes care of his edges so that you believe that there is space. But really, he’s just playing with color.”

Bac Liem said, “Good, you’re smart.” He looked at my uncles who were sitting with us and said, “She’s smart.”

One of my uncles said, “You know, she had to battle endlessly with her parents to let her make art.”

Bac Liem responded, “I would never let my child become an artist. Art is important, but I would never left my son become an artist. An artist’s life is a life of suffering. You are always poor. You will never have money. No, never. Never my child an artist. Know art, but never go deep into art.” He turned and looked at me.

I smirked and said, “I’m sorry, sir, but I might be a little deep.”

Bac Liem smirked back and extended his hand to me and said, “Would you like to be my apprentice?”

I naturally said yes.

Vong Co

My friends asked, “What are you doing tonight?”

I replied, “Tonight, I’m going to watch Vong Co with my aunt.”

They all made faces. “Why are you going to watch that? You’re going to fall asleep, it’s so boring. The king kills the princess, but the princess takes a half an hour to die because she has to sing about her death.”

We laughed.

As an effort to save Vong Co, which is a traditional Vietnamese art form, Ho Chi Minh City hosted a Vong Co singing competition. Famous guest judges would critique and give point to the performers. This competition was broadcasted on live television, and viewers could vote for their favorite singers.

My aunt works for the daughter of the man who sits in one of the upper chairs for HTV (the television station). So, my aunt’s boss usually gets tickets for most of the HTV events. Thus, my aunt got tickets. No one else wanted to go, so I went.

Vong Co 1

vong co 2

vong co 3

vong co 4

vong co 5

Dam Hoi

The other Sunday, I went to a Dam Hoi of one of my relatives. Dam Hoi is a day in Vietnamese tradition when family members get together to remember their ancestors. Usually, these festivities start in the morning. The altar is set with the pictures of the ancestors as the center piece, and array of food, and incense. The idea behind is that while the incense is burning, the ancestors are sharing the food with the family. Meanwhile, the females in the family are preparing food for many guests expected to arrive. The males continue with their cigarettes and heart-to-hearts. The children play.

dam hoi 1

dam hoi 2

dam hoi 3

dam hoi 4

dam hoi 5

dam hoi 6

dam hoi 7

dam hoi 8

dam hoi 9

dam hoi 10

dam hoi 11

dam hoi 12

Lacquer Painting

Professor Minh said, “Vietnamese people, in general, cannot paint in oil. Oil painting is good in America, you guys know how to paint. But, Vietnamese people know lacquer painting, and in all honesty, the medium accommodates the Vietnamese way much more.”

Professor Minh and I conversed for several hours about the process of lacquer painting.

Lacquer painting is done on a very special aged panel that is composed of paint, fabric and wood. The basic materials in this medium are pigment, gold leaf, silver leaf, eggshell, and most importantly, lacquer. This lacquer comes from the sap of a tree called Cay Go Son, which when literally translated, means Wood-paint tree.

Lacquer painting in Vietnamese is called Son Mai, which when literally translated, means Grind Paint. This is actually a more descriptive name for this medium. Lacquer painting involves the multiple layering of paint, silver and gold leaf, and eggshell. When each layer is painted, it must be silver or gold leafed so that the colors can glimmer. If the artist desires, he can also tile eggshell into the painting, which will polish to a very bright white. Each layer of paint must be sealed or hardened in a humid room. The paint will only set when there is hot and humid air around it. After all the layers of paint have been applied, the artist must grind away at the surface until the picture appears. When the artist is done grinding, the painting is buffed and polished by the sweat of his hands.

tammy and lacquer painting 1tammy and lacquer painting 2

Think of lacquer as a little bit like archaeology. There is a piece of land, with thousands of years of rock, bone, minerals, and dirt buried beneath it. Over the years these materials change with the weather of the Earth and combine into the land that we know. The archaeologist wants to bring out certain aspects that he finds special in the land. As such, he chips, grinds, and dusts away at the land until he sees what he wants to see. Similarly, the lacquer painter has to grind away at the painting until he sees the forms and the shapes that he desires. The difference is that the lacquer painter is the maker of the land. So, he actually has an idea of what is buried in the land. It is his job, to bring out that image according to his desires.

The core to the structure in lacquer painting is that everything has its origin from the Wood-paint tree. Once a painting is done, it actually starts a life of its own in that, over many years, the colors in the paintings will become brighter and more resonant.

Professor Minh and I concluded our meeting after several cups of tea. He said, “You can’t make lacquer paintings anywhere else but Vietnam. The humidity here allows for it. It is a long process, but be patient, it will be worth it.”

tammy and lacquer painting 3

49 Days

It is a Vietnamese belief that the soul can linger on the Earth for 49 days after a person dies before it can go into the afterworld. From the time of death, the family is supposed to pray for the person for 49 days. On the 49th, the family usually gets together and has the final prayer ceremony and a meal together.

In the States, Bac Le’s ashes were sprinkled in the sea; this was Bac Le’s 49th day in Vietnam.

altar up-close

altar

praying 1

praying 2

table 1

table 2

chatting

Nguyen family

Body Art

One day The asked me, “Can you wait here?  I have to practice Body Art.”

“I want to see it!  Body Art?  What is that?”

I watched the practice.  It was 5 guys moving around in a specific formation really really slowly.  At first they were just an abstract shape, then they lurked towards each other and made a triangle formation.

On Friday, there was a large promotional fashion/music show for Vera Visa, which is a new credit card that allows you to earn points when you buy Vera lingerie and other intimate apparel.  The show was also meant to celebrate Vera’s 5th anniversary.

The show took place at a local recreational center.  On the outside, there were teenagers playing basketball, children playing soccer, and elderly people playing tennis.   Inside the large building of the gym complex was a gigantic stage that was designed specifically for this show, which was to be broadcasted on live TV.  There were two large video screens, which showed promo Vera Visa commercials and visual effects.

Since I had an SLR camera, I was asked to be a photographer for the show.  With my red tag, I wandered around the venue for photogenic moments.  There were about 20 models running around the dressing room.  Every girl wore magenta colored lipstick and eyelash extenders.  Many were guzzling their dinners of sweet rice and chicken wrapped in banana leaves as others were dabbing on yet another layer of slightly-whiter face powder.  There was another group of people practicing dance moves.  A man counted on a microphone, “One, two, three, four.  One, two, three, four,” as girls perfected their ‘NSync booty-bumps and C-steps.

Viet Models

The show started with what The called “Body Art.”  5 men emerged from a dark, smokey background.  They wore white body suits and their faces were painted silver.  They looked like outer-space beings that came to Earth to promote Vera Visa—each man had a different letter on his body-suit:  V, E, R, A, and 5 (for 5th anniversary).

Body Art 1

Body Art 2


The show was a sparkling spectacular.

Vera Visa 1

Vera Visa 2

Vera Visa 3

Vera Visa 4

Vera Visa 5

My Grandmother

 

grandma 3grandma 2grandma_1.jpggrandma 4